Spring 2025 weeks 4 & 5: Figueira da Foz and further south along the Atlantic Coast

Having settled into the same terraced campground as two years ago in Figueria da Foz, we relaxed completely. We spent 10 days biking down to the indoor market and having coffee either with or without Karin or Ronald and with or without a lovely Portugese pasty (2 espressos, 2 pastries, and 3 huge fresh rolls to take home for less than 5 euros is hard to resist).

We enjoyed a couple of Karin’s afternoon dinners together with Ron who would take his usual break from his work. (He happened to be really busy but normally works just part time.) Reminded me of Jacques and me when I was still working (at home, as I did for 28 years). We’d have J’s breakfast and my lunch and then walk the dogs but without the Portugese hills, Portugese oranges, Portugese port, or Portugese pastries. Note the beautiful view of the ocean from their apartment!

We took a day trip with Karin to the Church of the Catholic Convent in Louriçal (dating from 1640). The nuns have absolutely no contact with the outside world and are self-sufficient, but they sell cinnamon or lemon cookies! You ring a bell, tell them what you want (we think there’s a peak hole), and then you are given your order through a rotating cubicle.  (see photo) 

We checked out a surfing competition in a lovely location (aren’t they all?). We bike road up and down the boulevard and beyond (to check out more surfing or whatever). 

And not to forget: the cataplana, which is a fish stew and has become a tradition for our visits. We saw Ron two years ago for his 60th birthday in the Netherlands. We sometimes see Karin when she visits her aging parents in Vierlingsbeek (just across the river from us in the Netherlands). But an extended visit is obviously nicer. We can talk about getting old!

We are curious to see what Figueira da Foz will be like in two years. How many high rises will have been added to the three that stand out on the waterfront right now? The city was advertised on TV during the  US Open tennis tournament last year (2024), so the place is not a secret anymore! Apparently a lot of Americans and Canadians had already discovered this place for working from home. Summers on the coast are not TOO hot and winters are mild. 😊 

On Monday 7 April, we headed south along the Portugese coast with its pristine Atlantic waters. Karin and Ron had given us some tips: Alcobaça (with zillions of really old churches), Nazaré (on the coast), Óbidos (another walled city — actually that tip came from somone else), and Peniche (also on the coast). We considered Fatima (a pilgrimage place) as well. Given that the weather was getting really hot, we decided to stick to the coast with the surfer’s paradise of Nazaré first on our list. On our way, we briefly stopped ouside the beach town of Pedrogão. What a view!

Using Park4night, we found a great free place right in the middle of Nazaré and walking distance from the beach. Nazaré is much more touristy than Figueira da Foz due in part to the cable car going up to an old fort. Fantastic views from up top: the hills, city, beach, and some of the most famous surfing waters in the world. An underwater canyon that is almost 25 kilometers deep  (+/- 16 miles) apparently creates the best surfing waves in the world. (Our interest in surfing, by the way, stems from Michael having tried it when he studied in California and also a nephew who has taught it  (now in Oud Dorp, The Netherlands). We still don’t understand it, though. 🤣

The walled, coastal city of Peniche is where we’re at now. It’s one of the best surfing locations in Europe as well because it offers “beaches and breaks” from three distinctly different directions (thank you Wikipedia). But not nearly as nice as Nazaré or Figueira da Foz!

We don’t know where we’re going tomorrow, but we DO know that we can’t get enough of these rugged coastal spots!